The story
Eight centuries of Islamic al-Andalus gave Spain the Alhambra, algebra vocabulary, and orange trees; 1492 brought the Reconquista's end, Columbus's voyage, and a global empire on which the sun never set, first. The Civil War of 1936 to 1939 and Franco's long dictatorship isolated the country; his death in 1975 opened a democratic transition so successful it became the textbook, and 1986 brought EU membership and an unleashing of energy.
The people
Spain is a federation of strong identities: Catalonia, the Basque Country, Galicia, and Andalusia each carry their own language or accent, cuisine, and calendar of festivals, from Pamplona's bulls to Seville's Holy Week to Valencia's Fallas bonfires. Life runs late (dinner at ten, streets full at midnight) and out loud, and the sobremesa, the hours of talk after a meal, is the true national institution.
The economy
The EU's fourth economy leads Europe in high speed rail (the world's second longest network after China), renewable energy, and tourism (second most visited country on earth). Zara's parent Inditex rewrote retail from Galicia; agriculture ships Europe's winter produce from Andalusian greenhouses.
Traveling there
Madrid and Barcelona anchor, Andalusia enchants (Seville, Granada, Córdoba), the north surprises: San Sebastián's pintxos, Bilbao's Guggenheim, Galicia's green coast and Santiago's pilgrim square. The AVE makes Madrid to Seville or Barcelona a two-and-a-half-hour hop.
Cities to visit
Beyond the cities
Moorish Spain's masterpiece in Granada: carved stucco, quiet courtyards, and gardens built around the sound of running water.
~2.5h from Seville by train/bus to Granada. Nasrid Palaces tickets sell out weeks ahead, book the official site the moment dates open.
What's on
Andalusia's solemn, spectacular Holy Week processions, Seville does it grandest.
A week of flamenco dresses, horse carriages, and sherry in candy-striped casetas.
Pamplona's famous, and infamous, week of encierros and non-stop fiesta.
Buñol's gloriously absurd hour-long tomato battle near Valencia.